The woman behind the would-be food revolution is one of fashion’s own: former runway model and current face of Lancôme, Elettra Wiedemann, who inherited her fresh face from her mother, Isabella Rossellini.
“I love the idea of nourishing Fashion Week,” Wiedemann said from Goodness’ chic yet simple space, a temporary takeover of Ed’s Chowder House, a seafood restaurant situated so close to Lincoln Center that diners can peer at the tents from their tables.
“I’d be at Fashion Week and I’d go into starvation mode,” Wiedemann explained. “I was hungry all the time, thinking, ‘Where am I going to get me some good food?’ I was like, ‘Actually maybe I have to do it myself.’ So I did.”
With a bad taste in her mouth and a master’s degree from the London School of Economics, where she wrote a dissertation on “the future of feeding urban populations,” Wiedemann partnered with Ed Brown (the Chowder House namesake) to serve up Goodness’ goodness.
The fare comprises predominately healthy, locally sourced breakfasts ($20) and lunches ($35), with wild mushroom omelets and grilled salmon on the menus, which change daily. But in addition to the size-0-friendly food, there are the “Goodness with a touch of badness” offerings, such as the pea pie with, yes, crème fraîche.
“If you have to share a plate of badness, just do it,” Wiedemann said. “Everyone has this perception that in fashion we’re eating lettuce leaves and cotton balls — not the case.”
Fashion friends including Prabal Gurung — who seated Wiedemann in the front row of his show, alongside Nicki Minaj (“I had to put my sunglasses on because her bow was hitting me in the face”) — joined her for a celebratory champagne toast at Goodness today.
“It should be something that we all share,” Wiedemann said hopefully. “We all eat.”
Or, we do now.
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Grilled scallops with shaved vegetables and arugula pesto will tempt even the least hungry Fashion Week devotee.
