Southern slow cooking

After a languid start, ‘Top Chef: Texas’ tries to turn up the heat

Saturday, November 19, 2011

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    PHOTO:Virginia Sherwood/Bravo

    From left, Emeril Lagasse, Padma Lakshmi and Tom Colicchio judge dishes on "Top Chef: Texas."

If you’ve missed the first few episodes in the new installment of Bravo’s flagship reality cooking series “Top Chef,” don’t worry — it’s been a bland offering. Set in the Lone Star State, “Top Chef: Texas” immediately capitalized on the state’s “everything’s bigger” motif, which wouldn’t necessarily have been a bad thing — if, let’s say, the contestants were immediately made to tackle a 20-pound rib eye or something equally unwieldy. So far, however, the “bigger” aspect applies mostly to the contestant pool. On day one, 29 chefs found themselves competing simply to make it on to the show, which resulted in an unfamiliar, underwhelming scene more closely resembling “Top Chef: The Tryouts.”

Fans who grew fond of prickly guest judge Anthony Bourdain last season will also be disappointed by his replacement — celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse. Lagasse isn’t exactly fresh, nor is he funny and charismatic like Bourdain, and although he’s popped up on these competition shows before as a one-off judge, to sustain an entire season with a guy known more these days for a catchphrase than a cutting-edge culinary reputation is asking a lot.

Despite these changes, glimpses of the old, classic “Top Chef” personality typologies are starting to percolate. Creepy Guy with Massive Padma Crush emerged (and quickly got the boot), as did Cocky Guy with Zero Talent, but Bickering Rival Chefs, Tragic Back-Story Guy and Dude with Funky Haircut and Heart of Gold remain. It’s these archetypes that make the show so popular, even after nine seasons: We like to see strong personalities in the kitchen, a place where many of us feel bashful and unconfident in our own skills. And, wouldn't you know it, last Wednesday’s episode finally capitalized on a little local flavor. We watched as chefs frantically cooked up rattlesnake meat and struggled with authentic Mexican cuisine for a Quinceañera party while the judges complained about things like tortillas and seasoning issues. Bam!

“Top Chef: Texas” airs Wednesdays at 10 p.m. Eastern on Bravo.